Last Meat Post

Due the last day of class, we were assigned one page about each kobe beef and kurobuta hog. I'm a little aprehensive posting this because it's so weak and half assed. It's interesting though so, enjoy!

Traditional Kobe Beef

The term “Kobe Beef” refers to the meat from a particular breed of cattle traditionally raised and slaughtered in accordance with the strict specifications of the Kobe region of Japan. It is highly prized for its extensive intra-muscular fat or “marbling.” Since USDA grading is largely based on visible marbling, Kobe beef is considered better than prime grade. It is very expensive – in Japan over $100 per pound - and coveted as the most tender and flavorful beef in the world.

The meat in question comes from the “Wagyu” cattle, which is genetically predisposed to marbling (Morgan Ranch). Imported breeds of cattle were isolated by the country’s unique geography and crossbred to create the Wagyu cattle breed. The animals are slaughtered at ~24-30 months and can yield up to 40% marbling (Mcgee 138). The name Wagyu originally referred to all Japanese beef cattle.

Kobe, Matzukya and Hokkaido are all notable Wagyu beef producing regions of Japan, Kobe being the most notable. The Japanese government imposed strict export regulations in order to protect its beef industry and until 1976, the Wagyu was not exported (O’Connell).

The process of raising the cattle includes feeding them beer, as the yeast was thought to increase the appetite and marbling. The limited space for the cattle to move required the muscles to be hand massaged to decrease stress and offset the likelihood of toughness. The resulting meat is flavorful, tender and rich (Mcgee 138).

Kobe Beef Today

Due to limited space In Japan, today most Kobe producers contract with cattle ranchers in either California or Australia. Most Kobe beef today comes from these two places. The Wagyu are fed and raised according to very specific Kobe specifications and sent to Japan for slaughter and fabrication.

The same Wagyu cattle is used for “American-Style” Kobe beef but production methods do not include the beer feeding and massaging. The quality comparison is debatable. In some places in NYC it can be found for less than $20 per pound.

According to meat scientists, only about 1/3 of the flavor, tenderness and juiciness of meat comes from the marbling. The rest is due to the breed, age, exercise, diet and stress at time of slaughter (Mcgee 137).

Though I have never tasted kobe beef, It is my opinion that the high prices probably have more to do with marketing than actual flavor.

Kurobuta Hog

Pork 100 years ago and up until the 50's contained large amounts of fat, both intra-muscular and inter-muscular. At one time it was the most popular meat in the US, but started losing ground as people became more health conscious. To combat the trends, pork farmers started breeding hogs with up to 1/5 as much fat as in 1980 (Mcgee 139). This resulted in a much leaner meat, but it also robbed the pork of it's marbling and it became dry and flavorless. This is the pork we know today. The Kurobuta hog is closer to those bred a century ago in that they contain marbling and are said to be the juiciest and most flavorful available. The Kurobuta/Berkshire hogs however are still lean, like those of today, they just contain the marbling that is so desired among chefs and consumers.

Kurobuta black hog is the Japanese name for the English “Berkshire hog.” It was reputed to have been discovered by Oliver Cromwell's Army in Reading, England. The hogs were bred for specific characteristics in the 1800's and have remained purebred ever since (SRF). Some time later Berkshire hogs were given to the Japanese government by England as a diplomatic gift, where it became the “Kurobuta” hog we know today (McAllister).

The Berkshire hog was larger than others of its time and was renowned for exceptional quality and flavor. The breed is genetically predisposed to marbling (McAllister). Because it is naturally moist and tender, chemicals commonly added to pork to help it retain flavor and moisture are never added to Berkshire.

The Pork is in high demand these days both by restaurants and consumers. Restaurants such as Spago and The French Laundry go to lengths to acquire purebred hogs, claiming it has a “very specific taste” (Greenwood). Hogs are unique in that they acquire the flavor of the feed they eat (Greenwood). Most Berkshire hog farms use natural methods of raising to maximize the flavor.