Saturday, July 29, 2006

Waiting For Jadot




This is just to say

I have eaten the
plums
that were in
the icebox
and which you were probably
saving
for breakfast

Forgive me
they were delicious
so sweet
and so cold

William Carlos Williams

Monday, July 24, 2006

Summer Break




Sadly my summer break is coming to an end. I don't have much to say about it except all the stuff I cooked. I still have a week left, I don't know how much food I'm going to make. Amanda wants me to make a swirl of red and yellow roasted pepper soup for her. So far I made a

a soft-ripened cheese plate with a
Sweet Onion-Lemon Compote
Pickled Cherries
and a
Brut Grapefruit Bellini


I love bellini's and this one was perfect for the hot summer day. I added just a tiny amount of grapefruit juice with a grapefruit supreme in the glass, giving it a subtle hint of the fruit that was not in the least bit sweet. The cherries were sweet-pickled with rice vinegar, salt, water and sugar.

Sweet Onion-Lemon Compote
1 large sweet onion (walla walla, vidalia, texas 1015 etc.)
1 lemon
1/2 c. dry white wine
1 Tbs sugar
2 Tsp salt
fresh ground black pepper
4 Tbs butter

Julienne the onion. Cut off the peel including the white part. Small dice or julienne the lemon peel. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Sweat the onions, lemon peel, salt and sugar. DO NOT CARMELIZE. Add the white wine and cook covered 45-60 minutes until onions are very tender. It might be necessary to add more water from time to time.

Gnocchi with Braised Oxtail

Corriander-Apple Turkey Burgers with Carmelized Onions and Apricot Chutney
Spicy Garlic-Chicken Stir-Fry with Coconut Rice.
Sweet Potato-Vanilla Bean Souffle
Rotisserie Chicken with Walnut-Glazed Celeriac and Braised Kale
Tapenade Pizza with Smoked Tomatoes and Basil
Crème de Potage d'Aubergine

I had some fun with coconuts and bananas. Banana muffins with dark rum and chocolate chips were pretty good, but the baked banana pudding with a coconut whipped topping and ginger sorbet was better. This was inspired by a desert served at monsoon restaurant in nyc. The recipe is below.

I got a ton of apricots one day and made a Vanilla-Apricot Custard by poaching the apricots in a vanilla cream and pureeing it. I served this with a baked apricot, apricot marmalade and a scoop of almond ice cream on top. Idea courtesy of Daniel Boulud.

Recently I've been smoking a lot (food of course, jeez!). There were ups and downs.

Smoked Salmon with a Glaze made from Cognac and Figs
Smoked Sea Bass with Lemony Kalamata Tapenade
Smoked Scallops with a light Dijon-Mint Cream sauce
Smoky Salsa

Smoky Salsa:
5 medium sized vine-ripened tomatoes, blanched and peeled
1/4 sweet onion, sliced
2 Jalepenos, seeds and ribs removed
juice from 1/2 lime
1 Tbs chipotle with adobo
1 1/2 tsp tomato paste
2 cloves garlic, stem end removed

Smoke the tomatoes, onions, jalepenos and garlic. Add all ingredients to a food processor and pulse to desired consistency. Allow to steep in the fridge for a day before serving.

Banana Pudding with Coconut Topping and Ginger Sorbet

Banana Pudding
5 ripe bananas
1 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup brown sugar
3/4 cup dark rum
1 egg
5 egg yolks

Preheat oven to 275. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Corsely mash the bananas in the mixture. Pour into an appropriately sized baking dish. Cook until custard has set, about 45 min. Serve warm or room temp.

Coconut Frosting
1 can coconut milk
1 tsp dark rum
1 1/2 cups confectioners sugar

Allow the coconut milk to sit undisturbed so it separates. Carefully remove the thick cream without any of the water. Combine the coconut cream and rum in a stand mixer. Whip the sugar in until sweetened to desired amount. Refrigerate immediately.

Ginger Sorbet
1/2# ginger root
simple syrup
1 T light corn syrup
water

Peel the ginger and puree in a food processor with water as needed. Wring out the mixture using cheesecloth. Bring the mixture to a simmer in a small saucepan, skimming as necessary. Reduce the mixture slightly. You should have about half a cup. Add the corn syrup and simple syrup. Mixture should be very sweet. Chill thoroughly and churn in an ice cream maker.

To plate: Cut a square of the banana pudding out and cover with a layer of coconut frosting. Top with a scoop of ginger sorbet.


Tuesday, July 04, 2006

4th of July Casserole



I love casseroles, both the food and the dish. Some of the oldest and most delicious meals including stews and braises have come from the one-pot-dinner. Bechamel is one of my favorite sauces to add to unify a casserole. The sauce mornay used in this recipe is based on it. What could be more american than a casserole - throwback to the family values that america was all about in the 50's on the 4th of july. I'm not trying to tear down an institution like grilling on the 4th, I just thought it would be cool to make this dish. That and it sounded really good to me. I've seen variations of it in a lot of places but this is my version.


Shrimp and Tomato Casserole

1# shrimp P&D
1/2# large tubular pasta, cooked
2 cloves garlic
1-2T olive oil
1/4c. minced onion
1/2 large can whole tomatoes in puree
1/2c. gruyere, shredded, plus 2T
1/2c. white cheddar, shredded, plus 2T
1T butter
1T flour
1 1/2c. milk, half and half or cream
salt and pepper

If you happen to be using shrimp that are not peeled and deveined, reserve the shells. Simmer them in a pint of water for 30min. Strain and reduce down until very thick. Reserve this liquid for the casserole.

In a small saucepan heat the butter and sweat the onions until translucent. Add the flour and cook 5min. Slowly whisk in the cold milk and stir until thickened. Add the cheese a small amount at a time until the sauce is thick and cheesy. Season with salt and pepper. Strain or use as is.

Preheat the oven to 350. Heat the olive oil in a casserole. Add the onions and sweat until translucent. Add the garlic and cook another 2-5min. Meanwhile, crush and seed the tomatoes reserving the puree. Add the shrimp and stir just until they start to curl up and turn pink. Add the tomatoes and cook another minute. Add the cheese sauce and pasta and stir until incorporated. Add the shrimp reduction (if using) at this point and tomato puree if mixture is too thick. Place into a greased pan and sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top. Bake until the top is golden brown. Remove and allow to rest 20 min. SERVE

If you have to grill something and this is unacceptable for you, I've found a compromise.

Cheeseburger Casserole

mise en place for cheeseburgers:
buns
burger patties
onions, sliced thickly
pickles
tomatoes, sliced
2x cheese sauce from above
butter

grill the burgers and the onions and set aside. In a greased casserole place a layer of hamburger buns over the bottom. Place a layer of grilled beef patties over the buns. You do not have to be careful to line up the burgers. Layer the tomatoes, pickles and onions. Pour the cheese sauce over the top and bake in a 350 degree oven until cheese is golden brown. Serve.