Saturday, May 19, 2007

Salmon Gravlax




I've wanted to do this for awhile and finally got around to it for an afternoon lunch with a couple friends. I first encountered this recipe during the Zachy's Wine Auction held at Daniel. Usually a side of salmon is enough for both days of the auction, but last time they went through two whole fish. I think its that good. When it's done well it's wonderful with citrus and dill fragrances complementing the salmon flavor. It's one of the best expressions of one of my favorite fish.

1kg coarse sea salt
500g sugar
1 orange, juiced and zested
1 lime, juiced and zested
1 lemon, juiced and zested
1 bu. dill, chopped
1/2 pound salmon filet

Combine the ingredients except for the salmon. The mixture should be like barely wet sand. If it's too wet add more salt and sugar in the proper 2:1 ratio.

Trim the salmon to a uniform shape. Remove any excess belly flap and reserve for another use. Use a flat container like a pyrex baking dish. Pack the cure all around the fish. Make sure every bit of the fish is covered. Refrigerate overnight 8-12 hours.

Afternoon Lunch

Sangria

Salmon Gravlax with Arugula

Potato Salad

Grilled Sardines with Zucchini and Red Pepper

Sunday, May 13, 2007

Cinnamon Panna Cotta with White Peach



I saw these molds at the local kitchen store and immediately thought of John Canner who never really understood what panna cotta is.

This turned out nicely because I used lighter dairy than cream. I peeled the white peach a little too early so it kind of oxidized which I didn't realize would happen. I owe this whole presentation to Ruth who taught me how to unmold panna cotta. The first one I tried dipping in hot water and it completely melted.

If I did it again I would add a little gelatin to the peach syrup which kind of ran off instead of nicely glazing the peach. The red wine was reduced slightly with sugar added. This was a nice end to a dinner of fresh pasta with sun dried tomatoes and basil and an arugula salad with pears and crispy lardons.

Panna Cotta for 2
100g half and half
30g whole milk
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
dash buttermilk
1 cinnamon stick
1/8th tsp vanilla extract
sugar (as desired)
1/3 sheet of gelatin

bloom gelatin in cold water. bring the other ingredients to a boil and add gelatin. Stir to dissolve. Pour into molds and let it set in fridge for 8 hours.

Peach Glaze

1 peach, chopped, skin on
36g sugar
36g water

heat the sugar and water over medium heat to dissolve. Add peaches and simmer 5-10 minutes. Strain and discard solids.

Tuesday, May 08, 2007

2 years to the day!




Happy birthday sandwich cult! I've watched you grow from a picture of beer and sushi to an elongated stumbling conquest of discovery. I'm so proud of you! I started baking class today and I baked you a cake.

I should also take this time to clarify the may 2005 post "Ketchup? Not on My Frites!" post. I really do love ketchup which is why it's so painful to watch it's abuse.

I'd also like to thank Pierre Leblanc, who taught me that cream can be a sauce.

Sunday, May 06, 2007

Zen and the Art of Cast Iron Maintenance




I can't think of anything better on a Saturday than curing my cast iron. When I moved into my current apartment I bought three cast iron skillets for $10. They proved to be not the highest quality so I'm taking the liberty to redo the "seasoning" myself and make my house unlivable for a short time. It has taken me a little while to get right so I thought I'd share my findings.

When you cure a piece of cast iron, you burn a lipid enamel onto the surface to protect it from rust and mold. Since it's made of oil, soap - especially strong dish soaps - will eat away or dissolve the cure. Because you never really wash it the seasoning grows and becomes strong over time.

Axiom: The hotter the metal gets, the more effective the cure will up to about 700F when it starts to burn off.
It will smoke no matter how you go about it. I recommend using a grill. If you do it in an oven you'd better have a powerful hood or a fan with serious horsepower and a well ventilated house. The most success I've had is to get the pan screaming hot ~600F and add the oil in stages by painting it on with a paper towel and a set of tongs. It burns very thin even, layers onto the surface almost immediately . I don't recommend this because it's really dangerous. For some reason hydrogenated fat or fat solid at room temp with the exception of butter work the best. Lard is traditional but vegetable shortening seems the popular choice.

1.Heat the Oven as hot as it will get or a grill to about 600F.
2.Scrub the pan aggressively with dish soap and steel wool until it's gray and lifeless.
3.Dry the pan with paper towels and put it on the grill or in the oven face down to dry it
4.apply add a thin, even layer of shortening or oil.
5.Place face down in oven/grill 15-20 minutes.
6.Apply more fat. Repeat at least 3 times.
7.Cool and enjoy.

If you want to skip the re-application process just add a single layer and leave in oven/grill 1-2 hours. The resulting surface is a beautiful jet-black. If there's nothing stuck to the pan all you need to do to clean it is rinse it in hot water and wipe it out with a paper towel. If something is stuck to it you need to use kosher salt to abrade it off the surface without

To Clean:
1.Rinse with hot water.
2.Pour in a good bit of kosher salt.
3.Scrub with a paper towel (the salt will abrade the crusted on stuff)

The most delicious way to cure your cast iron: If your cure is in need of a little mainentence, this recipe evens it out really nicely.

Saturday, May 05, 2007

Cinco de Mayo



I feel like maybe I should preface this with the fact that I did absolutely nothing today I have no Mexican heritage to celebrate, but I do love to sit at home and dream of mexican food. Instead of looking up and learning about regional classics I decided these dishes would be appropriately delicious and deliciously tacky.

I finally gave in to the bottles of pomegranate juice placed in strategic promotional positions throughout the local market which in turn led to the pomegranate margarita. Not Mexican at all but it tasted good. I thought if I were to celebrate this holiday this is what I'd like to make today. Veracruz snapper would be great, but I wanted to keep it simple and not ruin it with a real Mexican dish.

Cinco de Mayo Menu

Pomegranate Margaritas

Crabcake with Pumpkin Seed Sauce

Smoked Pork Tamales with Apricots

Banana Mousse with Cumin and Mexican Chocolate



Pomegranate Margarita

puree pomegranate juice, pomegranate molasses, lime juice, triple sec ice and fresh mint. Serve immediately


Crabcake with Pumpkin Seed Sauce

prepare a crabcake with brunoise, celery, red and yellow pepper and chopped cilantro.

onions
garlic
red jalepeno
vermouth
chili de arbol, rehydrated
tomato paste
cilantro stems
pumpkin seeds
oil
salt
chicken stock

Toast pumpkin seeds in the oven and allow to cool. Grind in a spice grinder to make a pumpkin seed flour. Reserve.

Sweat onions in oil 5 minutes. Add garlic and chilis 2 min. Add tomato paste and cook another 2 min. Add vermouth and reduce au sec. Add pumpkin seed flour and cook 1 minute. Add chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Make more roux with the pumpkin seed if the sauce is not thick enough. Strain and serve.
prepare a crabcake with brunoise, celery, red and yellow pepper and chopped cilantro.

Banana Mousse with Mexican Chocolate

1 mexican chocolate tableta, highest quality
2 bananas, ripe
1/2 tsp fresh ground cumin seed
1 T chopped toasted peanuts
1 T banana liquer
ground unsweetened, un-alkalized cocoa powder
small bit of fresh vanilla bean scrapings or tiny bit of vanilla extract
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 sheet gelatin
salt


Bloom the gelatin in cold water. Add the gelatin and stir until dissolved. Heat 2 Tbs of water until very hot. Dissolve the gelatin in the water and cool slightly. Puree the banana and banana liquer with the gelatin water and a pinch of salt.

whip the cream to nearly stiff peaks. Fold a third of the banana puree into the whip cream. Slowly fold the rest of the banana into the cream in installments. Serve right away or refrigerate.

Crumble mexican chocolate pieces over the mousse.