Friday, February 29, 2008

New Menus



We started work this week on a spring menu for a restaurant in Montreal. The process of writing a new and seasonal menu is so challenging. We look at the same ingredients every year and try to keep them interesting to both the customer and ourselves. We think dredge up all the recent ideas and things we find interesting and write it all down. At this point I stand back and look at and think, "that's it?" What about the lamb, the morels, the fava beans, the pork belly, the zucchini, the artichokes? Oh my god the artichokes. Oh boy.

There are a few specific reasons for the seasonal defectiveness of some ingredients. However, most of these dishes need some spring-ification. Here is the brainstorm process:

mosaic of lightly-cured salmon and avocado
quail egg, horseradish, gazpacho sorbet

sauteed veal sweetbreads

spring peas, saba, bacon vinaigrette

rabbit terrine

pickled ramps

hot and cold or swirl of asparagus soups
shaved crudites, parma ham (crisped)

ravioli of braised lamb/wild boar and swiss chard
reconstituted raisins, crispy chard, golden raisin puree (cumin, tumeric)

pork cheeks braised in milk and honey
fennel pollen, shaved fennel salad, lavender, lemon vinaigrette

(Soup)
cockles, sauteed garlic scapes, wild mushrooms

hot and cold foie gras

Mains

braised beef cheek/short rib
(brined and cooked at 56C for 72 hours)
rhubarb puree, madeira-coffee jus, asparagus, potato fondant

bacon-wrapped monkfish
ragout of white beans, tomato confit, "sauce bordelaise"

butter-poached lobster
golden beet puree, sauteed spinach, chorizo emulsion

tea-smoked duck breast
(or poached in french toast stock)
pain perdue, black olive caramel, pickled daikon

terrine of squab breast
chicken liver, tellicherry-currant coulis

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Spice Quiz




I love cooking with spices. You can give any ingredient or recipe an instant sense of regionality as well as a fiery heat or delicate complexity. Spices can breath life into a dish and they can bog it down and remind us why we started using them in the first place, before refrigerators came into fashion.

Do you know (without looking up on google) what what makes up the chinese 5 spice? How about Arabic or Turkish 7 spice (baharat)? French "quatre epices" (4 spice)?
I started thinking about this the other day when I ran across one that I hadn't heard of before; vadouvan. What are characteristic elements of less clearly defined mixes like, cajun, pickling spices, tex-mex? Or older mixes like shichimi togarashi, zaa'tar, garam masala, ras-el hanout, chermoula, harissa, berbere?

A little while back David brought this website to my attention: Gernot Katzer's Spices. Its really an amazing resource.

I was able to find recipes I was happy with:
berbere
vadouvan
pickling spices
tex-mex

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Manufacturing Deliciousness


Nowadays we can use gas chromatography and olfactometry techniques to analyze different foods and see why they go together. There are a number of commercial databases that list thousands of popular ingredients and their threshold levels of volatile compounds. For the most part, this information is best used to explain a tasty combination. However, we can look at compounds and try to predict interesting combinations with varied success. This idea is the very heart of what we refer to as "Molecular Gastronomy" - to completely deconstruct something down to its most basic elements. This can mean the physical and chemical process behind heating a dish, flavors and textures of a classical dish or aromatic compounds in a specific combination of ingredients. How we reassemble the data is the interesting part.

I've barely begun to scratch the surface of this topic personally. In the spirit of science, I've decided to post these limited findings. Most combinations are based on similarly high levels of specific compounds. Of course these are not guaranteed to work. I was really excited to find things like lavender and juniper occur so frequently, because I like them both very much and find them really hard to work with. My combinations go from simple and typical like orange, cilantro and cardamom to very strange like, asparagus, coffee and popcorn. Here's what I found.

Combination #1:
orange
lemon
dill seed
fennel
juniper berry
lavender

Combination #2:
lavender
banana
coffee
honey
gin
allspice

Combination #3:
bay leaf
cheddar cheese
gin
allspice

Combination #4:
caviar
cilantro

Combination#5:
asparagus
coffee
popcorn

Combination #6:
orange juice
cilantro
cardamom

More on this topic visit, Khymos.org, TGRWT, Leffingwell.com

Friday, February 01, 2008

Sugar as a Cooking Medium



This is just a thought... We can use syrup to cook things at a high temperature like when we pour it over nuts to make peanut brittle so why not other things? Heat a pot of hot syrup and immerse ingredients in it to cook the same as you would water or oil. You could use it too cook sous vide over 100C. We could poach scallops in honey or glaze root vegetables in hot syrup. A solution of 99% sucrose can be heated up to 154C/310F without breaking down - the temperature of a low oven. But since its considerably more dense than oil it would cook faster than in a fryer. Glucose syrup is 1.5 times more dense than water and can be heated well past the boiling point, making it much more efficient. If you cook a beef roast in syrup at a hard-crack temperature it should form a crust when it cools that will chip off. Something to think about.

Glucose Density (g/cm3) = 1.54
Water Density (g/cm3) = 1
Oils Density (g/cm3) = .91-.93