Thursday, November 27, 2008

Chestnut Soup

Same soup, different method. This is a continuuing refinement. The first time I tried making this soup I roasted the chestnuts and pureed them in a blender with stock. This time I cooked the chestnuts sous vide with cognac and brown sugar. I thought I might preserve some of the chestnut flavor by using the sous vide liquid in the soup, instead of diluting it with stock. When I opened the bag the aroma was very clean and complex - almost floral. The color had changed from translucent, pale-amber to an opaque clay red. Ultimately I'd like to make a soup without the addition of cream or milk - or more like a chestnut horchata with nutmeg and cinnamon if dairy is to be added.

Unfortunately the liquid was much too astrigent to be used in the final soup and with it went all the aromatics. In the future, I might try blanching the nuts first in hopes of removing some of the astrigency. Some of the nuts were overcooked and not only became mushy but took on a less pleasant smell like cooked beans.

To make the soup I thinned the puree with turkey stock to desired consistency. Season with salt and brown sugar. Without the cooking liquid the aromatic end is lacking. I either have to replace it completely with another ingredient or rethink the cooking liquid.

for the chestnut puree:

450g chestnuts
50g cognac
25g brown sugar
250ml water

peel the chestnuts. Add the cognac to a pan warm slightly. Flame off the alcohol. Melt in the brown sugar and add the water. Seal the chestnuts with the liquid in a vacuum bag and simmer 25-30 minutes until the nuts are tender. Strain the liquid out. Pass the nuts through a tammis.

Monday, November 10, 2008

ham and brie

ham
bechamel
pork fat
oyster
mandarin
shiitake mushroom
smoke
brie
stale bread

My parents used to make a dish of cured beef sliced thinly over toasted bread coated with a bechamel-like sauce. It was delicious, salty and bland. there is something about salty, starchy blandness that is very important. A well made bechamel poured over stale bread could be very satisfying.

The smoke is the only hesitation and possible omition to this train of thought. I would hate to overpower the delicate fungal nuances of the cheese.